Technical Specifications
Engine Variants & Oil Capacity
| Engine (2020–2025) | Oil Capacity (with filter) | Recommended Viscosity / Grade |
|---|---|---|
| 1.8 L 4-cyl (2ZR-FAE) | ~4.4 qt / ~4.2 L :contentReference[oaicite:1]{index=1} | SAE 0W-20 (API SN/RC) :contentReference[oaicite:2]{index=2} |
| 1.8 L 4-cyl Hybrid (2ZR-FXE) | ~4.4 qt / ~4.2 L :contentReference[oaicite:3]{index=3} | SAE 0W-16 :contentReference[oaicite:4]{index=4} |
| 2.0 L 4-cyl (M20A-FKS) | ~4.9 qt / ~4.6 L :contentReference[oaicite:5]{index=5} | SAE 0W-16 (per Toyota spec); some sources allow 0W-20 if 0W-16 unavailable, but recommend switching back on next change. :contentReference[oaicite:6]{index=6} |
Oil Filter, Drain Plug & Washer
- OEM oil filter: **90915-YZZN1** for most 2020–2025 Corollas. :contentReference[oaicite:7]{index=7}
- Drain plug torque:
- 1.8 L engine: ~27 ft-lbs (≈ 36 N·m) :contentReference[oaicite:8]{index=8}
- 2.0 L engine: ~30 ft-lbs (≈ 41 N·m) :contentReference[oaicite:9]{index=9}
- Recommended drain plug washer (crush washer): Toyota part **90430-12031** or equivalent. For example: **:contentReference[oaicite:10]{index=10}**.
Oil Pressure / Temperature Notes
The Corolla’s engine oil system runs within a standard pressure range; for normal warm operating conditions, there is no special “high-pressure flush” step. Use the viscosity specified above for optimal cold-start behavior and efficient lubrication during warm-up.
Maintenance Schedule
Toyota’s recommended maintenance interval for oil change is typically every **10,000 km (or 12 months)** under “normal driving” for newer Corollas — but many DIYers (and shops) shorten that to 8,000 km or 6 months for peace of mind, especially if they use ultra-light synthetic oils. Always refer to your owner’s manual.
Tools & Materials List
- Socket wrench set (3/8″ or 1/2″ drive) including 14 mm (or 9/16″) socket for drain plug
- Torque wrench (capable of measuring 20–50 ft-lbs)
- Oil filter wrench or strap wrench
- Oil drain pan (capacity at least 6 L recommended)
- Funnel
- Shop rags / microfiber towels
- Gloves (nitrile or latex)
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (if needed to access oil pan safely)
- Replacement parts and consumables:
- Engine oil (~5 L depending on engine) — see options below
- Oil filter (OEM 90915-YZZN1 or equivalent)
- Drain plug washer / gasket — e.g., **:contentReference[oaicite:11]{index=11}**, or an OEM torque-washer set
- Oil-absorbent mat / cardboard (optional but helpful for spills)
Estimated costs: DIY parts-only is very affordable for this job. A five-liter jug of good-quality 0W-16 or 0W-20 oil costs around €40–€60, a genuine filter around €10–15, and a washer is a couple of euros. Total parts cost typically under €80 (depending on your region).
Safety Warnings:
- Support the car securely with jack stands or ramps — **never rely on a jack alone**.
- Oil is hot after driving — let the engine cool for **at least 10 minutes** before draining.
- Used oil is a health & environmental hazard. Collect in a proper container and recycle at a certified facility.
- Wear gloves and eye protection — oil can splash, and metal edges around the pan or filter housing may be sharp.
- Do not overtighten the drain plug — overtightening can strip threads or damage the oil pan.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Warm up the engine: start the Corolla and let it idle for 3–5 minutes to bring the oil to operating temperature. This makes draining more efficient. Then switch it off and wait ~5–10 minutes to allow oil to settle.
Raise the vehicle safely if needed using ramps or a jack and jack stands. Make sure the car is level so you can accurately check the dipstick later.
Place your drain pan under the oil pan’s drain plug.
Using the appropriate socket (14 mm or 9/16″, depending on model), loosen the drain plug. Use a **slow, steady motion**, letting hot oil flow out. Remove the old washer from the plug.
Once the oil has mostly drained (you’ll see a slow drip), carefully reinstall the drain plug with a **new crush washer** (e.g., Toyota 90430-12031). Torque to spec: ~27 ft-lbs for 1.8 L, ~30 ft-lbs for 2.0 L. Use your torque wrench. **Do not skip the washer — reusing the old one often causes leaks.**
Move to the oil filter housing. Use a filter wrench to loosen the old filter. Be ready — it’ll likely spill some residual oil.
Before installing the new filter, lightly coat its rubber gasket with fresh engine oil (just a dab — helps seal). Screw the new filter on by hand until its gasket contacts the housing, then turn another ¾–1 full turn. Do not overtighten.
Lower the car (if raised), and using a funnel, pour in the correct amount of engine oil. For 1.8 L: start with ~4.2 L; for 2.0 L: start with ~4.6 L. Re-check the dipstick.
Start the engine and let it idle for ~30 seconds, then shut off. Wait another 5 minutes, then re-check the dipstick. Add more oil in small increments (100-200 ml) until the level sits between the two marks on the dipstick.
Clean up any spilled oil, reinstall underbody shields if removed, and make a note of the change (date, mileage) for future maintenance.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Oil Level Too Low or Too High
If after filling and idling you still can’t get the dipstick into the proper range:
- If it’s too low, carefully add 100–200 ml more, wait, re-check. Overfilling risks foaming / aeration.
- If it’s too high, drain a little (via the plug) into your catch pan, then re-measure.
Oil Leak from Drain Plug
If X happens: oil drip from the plug
Check Y: likely the washer was reused, or torque was off. Remove the plug, inspect the washer—if flat or deformed, replace it. Re-torque correctly with new gasket.
Oil Leak from Filter Housing
If X happens: dripping oil near filter housing after running
Check Y: the filter may not have been tightened enough, or its gasket not clean. Remove, wipe both sealing surfaces, reapply fresh oil to the gasket, reinstall.
Foamy or Milky Oil on Dipstick
This often means air is in the oil (aeration). It can be caused by overfilling or improper torque on plug or filter. Drain a bit, re-check, and verify both plug and filter are secure.
Cost Comparison: DIY vs Professional
DIY Cost:
- Engine oil (5 L): ~€50
- Oil filter: ~€12
- Washer: ~€2–5 per change
- Total DIY: **≈ €70–70** (dependent on region + brand)
Professional Service:
- Dealer or garage oil change for Corolla: often between **€120–€180**, depending on labor rate and whether they use OEM oil / filter.
Long-Term Savings: Doing your own oil changes every 8,000 km instead of paying a shop can save you hundreds over several years. Plus, you control quality.
Pro Tip: I always keep a small stock of crush washers and genuine filters in my own tool cabinet. Saves time and prevents leaks. Also, when pouring in fresh oil, use a funnel with a flexible spout — makes it much easier in tight engine bays.
Wondering how often you really need to change your oil? Check out our guide on proper oil change intervals. If you’re driving a high-mileage vehicle, you might also want to read best oils for high-mileage vehicles. And if you’re not quite sure what viscosity to pick — say, 0W-20 versus 5W-30 — we’ve got an explainer here: understanding oil viscosity differences.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does an oil change cost for a Corolla if I take it to a shop?
In my experience, professionally done oil changes for a Corolla typically run between **€120 and €180**, depending on labor rates, whether OEM or aftermarket oil/filter is used, and whether any extra services (like fluid top-up) are included.
Can I reuse the oil drain plug washer?
Technically you *can*, but I strongly advise against it. Reusing the old washer, especially if it’s compressed or deformed, is a common cause of leaks. It costs just a few euros to replace and takes seconds to swap.
What dipstick location does the Corolla have?
On most 2020–2025 Corolla engines, the dipstick is located at the front of the engine bay, toward the passenger side. It’s a bright colored (often yellow) loop, easy to spot, but always wipe and reinsert to get an accurate read.
Is it okay to use non-Toyota synthetic oil?
Yes — as long as the oil meets API SN/RC (or newer) or ILSAC multigrade standards, it’s generally fine. Many high-quality synthetics from reputable brands will work perfectly. However, using the wrong viscosity (e.g., too thick) can affect cold starts or fuel economy.
Should I do an oil change more frequently than Toyota’s intervals?
For many DIY mechanics (and even shops), shortening from the “recommended by Toyota” interval makes sense — especially if you use ultra-light oils or drive in severe conditions (lots of short trips, very hot or cold weather). Changing at ~8,000 km or every 6 months can provide extra engine protection.
What happens if I overtighten the drain plug or filter?
You risk damaging the oil pan (if you overtighten the plug), or crushing the filter gasket so badly that it leaks. Worse, stripped threads can be a costly repair. That’s why torque specs (~27 ft-lbs or ~30 ft-lbs) matter — use a proper torque wrench.
Conclusion
There you have it: a complete, shop-tested walkthrough for doing a DIY oil change on your 2020–2025 Toyota Corolla. Between choosing the right oil, using the correct torque, and installing a fresh washer every time, you’ll end up with a clean, reliable job — not just a “pressure gauge reading in the green.” For most Corollas, this is a moderate-difficulty job: nothing wild, but worth doing carefully.
In terms of cost, doing it yourself can save you a significant chunk of change versus a shop. More importantly, you get to know your car better—and that’s something dealers won’t charge you for. As a mechanic, I can tell you: taking those 30–45 minutes to do your own oil change makes a real difference over time.