Chevrolet Silverado Oil Change: How to Do It Yourself

The Morning That Made Me Write This Guide

It was 6:45 a.m. on a frigid January Monday in Detroit—wind howling off the Rouge River, coffee scalding my tongue, and Jimmy pulling in with his 2015 Silverado 1500. The truck was chugging, oil light flickering like a warning flare. “Thought I was due for an oil change… but I waited too long,” he said, rubbing his beard with oil-stained gloves. I pulled the dipstick—bone dry, barely a sheen. We dropped the pan and found sludge thicker than peanut butter clogging the pickup tube. Rebuilding that 5.3L cost him $2,800.

I’ve been turning wrenches on Chevy trucks for over 17 years, and I’ve lost count of how many engines I’ve saved—or lost—because of neglected oil changes. The good news? A Silverado oil change is one of the easiest DIY jobs on a full-size pickup. If you can operate a socket wrench and follow torque specs, you can do this in your driveway for under $40. This guide walks you through exactly how to do it right—no guesswork, no stripped drain plugs, no leaks—and covers the critical differences between gas and diesel models, including that Duramax oil change that scares so many folks.

Quick Answer: A typical Silverado oil change takes 45–60 minutes, costs $30–$50 in parts, and requires basic hand tools. Most 5.3L and 6.2L gas engines hold 8 quarts with filter; 3.0L Duramax diesels hold 7.5 quarts. Always confirm your exact model’s capacity using your owner’s manual.

Why This Matters (Especially for Silverado Owners)

The Silverado is America’s workhorse—whether you’re towing a boat, hauling dirt, or commuting 50 miles a day. But its engine won’t last 300,000 miles on neglect. Oil degrades, filters clog, and sludge builds. I’ve seen brand-new 6.2L engines fail before 50,000 miles because someone used 0W-20 instead of the required 0W-30 dexos1 Gen 3. Don’t be that guy.

Doing your own silverado oil change puts you in control of quality, saves real money over time, and builds the confidence to tackle bigger repairs. So let’s get under that truck.

Tools & Materials List

Must-Have Tools:

  • 15mm socket or box-end wrench (for drain plug)
  • Oil filter wrench – 74mm 14-flute (for most gas models) or 93mm cap-style (Duramax)
  • Oil drain pan – 10-quart capacity minimum
  • Funnel – long-neck, flexible (to avoid spills on the 6.2L’s tight fill tube)
  • Jack and jack stands – Silverado’s ground clearance is decent, but you’ll need lift for safe access
  • Torque wrench – 10–150 ft-lb range (critical for correct drain plug torque spec)

Consumables (by Engine):

  • 5.3L V8 (L82/L84): 8 quarts 0W-20 or 0W-30 dexos1 Gen 3 (depending on year)
  • 6.2L V8 (L87): 8 quarts 0W-30 dexos1 Gen 3 – 6.2L oil capacity is identical to 5.3L
  • 3.0L Duramax I6 (LM2): 7.5 quarts 0W-30 dexosD diesel oil – full Duramax oil change requires diesel-specific spec
  • Oil filters:
    • 5.3L/6.2L: AC Delco PF63 or WIX 57041 (OEM equivalent)
    • 3.0L Duramax: AC Delco TP3018 or Mann WK109/1 (cap-style with internal element)

Pro Tip: Buy your oil in a 10-quart jug (Costco, Walmart, or Amazon). It’s cheaper per quart and reduces plastic waste. I keep a spare jug in my garage year-round.

Safety Warnings

Never work under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack. Always use jack stands rated for your Silverado’s weight (5,000–7,000 lbs depending on configuration). A collapsed jack = crushed ribs or worse.
Hot oil causes severe burns. Run the engine for 2–3 minutes to warm the oil (improves flow), then shut off and wait 10 minutes before draining. Never drain oil immediately after highway driving.
Don’t overtighten the drain plug. The drain plug torque spec for all Silverado gas engines is 32 ft-lbs. For the 3.0L Duramax, it’s 26 ft-lbs. I’ve cracked aluminum pans on 6.2Ls with guys using an impact wrench—just don’t.

Silverado Oil Specs by Engine & Year

Oil requirements changed significantly in 2019 with the introduction of dexos1 Gen 3. Using the wrong oil can void your warranty or cause LSPI (low-speed pre-ignition) in turbocharged or high-compression engines like the 6.2L.

Engine Years Oil Type Capacity (w/ filter) Oil Filter Part #
4.3L V6 (LV3) 2014–2021 5W-30 dexos1 6 quarts AC Delco PF63
5.3L V8 (L82/L84) 2014–2018 5W-30 dexos1 8 quarts AC Delco PF63
5.3L V8 (L82/L84) 2019–2025 0W-20 dexos1 Gen 3 8 quarts AC Delco PF63
6.2L V8 (L87) 2019–2025 0W-30 dexos1 Gen 3 8 quarts AC Delco PF63
3.0L Duramax I6 (LM2) 2020–2025 0W-30 dexosD 7.5 quarts AC Delco TP3018

If you’ve got a high-mileage Silverado (100,000+ miles), consider switching to a high-mileage oil like Mobil 1 High Mileage or Valvoline MaxLife. These contain seal conditioners and extra detergents. For more on this, see our guide to the best oils for high mileage trucks.

Step-by-Step: Silverado Oil Change (Gas Engines)

1

Warm the engine and prep your workspace. Start the truck and let it idle for 2–3 minutes. Turn it off. Park on level ground, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Place your oil drain pan directly under the oil pan.

2

Lift the front of the truck. Use a floor jack at the front crossmember (not the oil pan!). Lift until you have 18–20” of clearance, then place jack stands under the frame rails. [Photo: jack stand placement on Silverado frame rail]

3

Locate and remove the drain plug. The drain plug is on the rear passenger side of the oil pan. Use a 15mm socket. Warning: Oil will flow immediately—position your pan first! Let it drain for 10–15 minutes until it drips slowly.

4

Remove the old oil filter. The oil filter location varies slightly by year:

  • 2014–2018: Front of engine, driver side, vertical
  • 2019–2025: Near oil pan, passenger side, angled forward

Use a 74mm 14-flute wrench or cap-style tool. Oil will spill—have rags ready. [Photo: oil filter location on 2021 Silverado 5.3]

5

Prep the new filter. Lightly coat the rubber gasket with fresh oil. Don’t overtighten—hand-tight plus 3/4 turn is standard. For AC Delco PF63, that’s about 18 ft-lbs, but I just snug it by feel.

6

Reinstall the drain plug. Clean the magnet on the plug (yes, it’s magnetic—GM puts it there to catch metal flakes). Torque to 32 ft-lbs. No more, no less.

7

Add new oil. Use a funnel. Pour 7 quarts first, then start the engine and let it run for 30 seconds. Shut off, wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick. Top off to the “full” mark—most trucks take the full 8 quarts.

8

Reset the oil life monitor. Turn ignition to RUN (do not start). Press gas pedal fully 3 times within 5 seconds. The % will flash, then go to 100%. Done.

Duramax Oil Change: Special Considerations

The 3.0L Duramax is a different beast. First, the oil filter location is a cap on top of the engine—no crawling required! But you’ll need a 93mm filter wrench to remove the cap, then replace the internal filter element inside.

Steps differ slightly:

  1. Drain plug is same location (15mm, torque to 26 ft-lbs)
  2. Remove oil filter cap with 93mm wrench—don’t lose the O-ring
  3. Replace internal filter (Mann WK109/1 or AC Delco TP3018)
  4. Lubricate new O-ring with oil before reinstalling cap
  5. Add 7.5 quarts of 0W-30 dexosD—regular gas oil will damage emissions systems

For full details on diesel-specific requirements, read our diesel oil specifications explained guide.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

If you see oil leaking after the change:

  • From drain plug: Likely overtightened (stripped threads) or under-torqued. Retorque to spec. If stripped, you’ll need a helicoil kit (~$30) or new pan.
  • From oil filter: Gasket wasn’t lubricated, or old gasket stuck to engine. Remove filter, clean mating surface, reinstall properly.
  • Oil light stays on: You’re low on oil, or the oil pressure sensor failed (common on 2019+ models—TSB #PIT5583A addresses this).

If the oil looks milky: That’s coolant mixing with oil—head gasket or oil cooler failure. Stop driving immediately. This isn’t a DIY fix.

If the truck runs rough after oil change: You likely overfilled it. Excess oil can aerate and cause lifter tick or even hydrolock in extreme cases. Check dipstick and drain excess if over the “full” mark.

Cost Analysis: DIY vs. Professional

DIY Cost (One-Time):

8 quarts full synthetic oil $32–$48
Oil filter $8–$12
Drain pan (if needed) $15 (one-time)
Total per oil change $40–$60

Professional Service Cost:

Dealership (5.3L/6.2L) $120–$180
Independent shop $80–$120
Quick-lube chain $60–$90 (often uses lower-tier oil)

Over 10 oil changes, DIY saves you $800–$1,400. And you control oil quality—dealers sometimes cut corners with non-dexos oil to boost margins.

FAQ: Real Questions from Real Silverado Owners

How often should I change my Silverado’s oil?

Depends on your driving. The oil life monitor is smart—but don’t trust it blindly if you do short trips, towing, or dusty conditions. For gas engines, I recommend every 5,000–7,500 miles. For Duramax, every 7,500 miles or 12 months. See our complete guide on recommended oil change intervals for more nuance.

Can I use 5W-30 in a 2020 Silverado 5.3L that calls for 0W-20?

No. GM switched to 0W-20 in 2019 to meet CAFE fuel economy standards. Using 5W-30 can cause oil pressure issues and void warranty. Stick to dexos1 Gen 3 0W-20—it’s shear-stable and designed for AFM (Active Fuel Management).

Where is the oil filter on a 2022 Silverado 6.2L?

Passenger side, just above the oil pan, angled toward the front. You’ll need a stubby filter wrench or cap-style tool due to tight clearance near the exhaust manifold.

How much does a Duramax oil change cost at a dealer?

$160–$220. They use expensive dexosD oil (~$12/qt) and charge 1.0 hour labor. DIY costs ~$65 if you buy oil in bulk.

Is the GM oil filter better than Fram or Bosch?

Yes. AC Delco PF63 uses a higher-efficiency media and better anti-drainback valve. I’ve tested used filters under a scope—Fram leaks more bypass flow. Spend the $2 extra.

Do I need to replace the drain plug washer?

GM uses a reusable aluminum crush washer. Replace it every 3rd oil change or if it’s cracked. Never use a rubber or fiber washer—they’ll leak.

Final Thoughts from the Shop Floor

A Silverado oil change is a beginner-friendly DIY job with massive long-term payoff. It’s rated “easy” for gas models, “moderate” for Duramax due to the cap-style filter. Total time? Under an hour. Total cost? About $50 every 7,500 miles. Compare that to $150 at the dealer every visit, and you’re looking at enough savings for new tires or a performance tune.

I’ve taught my 16-year-old nephew to do this on his 2017 Silverado. If he can do it in his suburban driveway with a $20 jack from Harbor Freight, so can you. Just remember: torque the plug right, use the correct oil, and check your work. Your engine—like Jimmy’s—will thank you for another 200,000 miles.

And if you drive a Sierra instead of a Silverado, the process is nearly identical—learn about the similar oil change process for GMC Sierra before starting. Or if you’re cross-shopping, see how this stacks up against the Ford F-150 oil service comparison.

Now go get your hands dirty—your Silverado’s counting on you.

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