Ford F-150 Oil Change Guide: Tools, Steps & Tips

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Last Thursday it was 28°F in the shop, the overhead doors were rattling, and a 2019 F-150 Platinum with the 3.5 EcoBoost rolled in on the hook. Customer thought he had a rod knock. Turned out the previous shop overtightened the filter so bad it deformed the housing—truck was running on 2 quarts for who knows how long. $11,000 engine because somebody used a cheap filter wrench and gorilla arms. I’ve seen that movie too many times, so here’s every single thing I wish that last shop knew about doing a proper Ford F-150 oil change.

Quick Answer: Most 2011–2025 F-150s take 6–7.7 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic, Motorcraft FL-500S or FL-820S filter (depends on engine), drain plug torque is 20 ft-lbs (2018+ aluminum pans). Full step-by-step below.

Tools & Materials You’ll Actually Need

  • Must-have
  • 17 mm wrench or socket – drain plug on every gas engine 2009+
  • Oil filter wrench – 74-76 mm 15-flute for cartridge filters (EcoBoost & Coyote) or 36 mm for spin-on (older 5.4/4.6)
  • 3/8″ ratchet + 8″ and 12″ extensions
  • Funnel that actually fits the valve cover (Motorcraft YA-992 or Lisle 63600)
  • 6+ quart drain pan – these trucks dump fast
  • Shop rags and nitrile gloves
  • Torque wrench that goes down to 20 ft-lbs (yes, you need it)
  • Nice-to-have that save your sanity
  • Fumoto F-103N valve (M14x1.5) – one-time install, never lose another washer again
  • Milwaukee M12 right-angle impact – gets the underbody shields off in 45 seconds
  • Fluid extractor (Mityvac 7201) – top-side oil changes on 2021+ are stupid easy

Rough tool cost if you’re starting from zero: $180–$250 on Amazon or AutoZone. That kit will pay for itself in three oil changes.

Engine-by-Engine Specifications (2011–2025)

Engine Years Capacity (w/filter) Filter Drain Plug Torque Viscosity
2.7 EcoBoost 2015–2025 6.0 qt Motorcraft FL-500S 20 ft-lbs 5W-30
3.5 EcoBoost (non-HO) 2011–2025 6.3 qt FL-500S 20 ft-lbs 5W-30
3.5 PowerBoost Hybrid 2021–2025 6.0 qt FL-500S 20 ft-lbs 0W-20 (2024+)
5.0 Coyote 2011–2025 7.7 qt (2011-17) → 8.8 qt (2018+ Gen 3) FL-500S 20 ft-lbs 5W-30 (5W-20 pre-2018)
3.3 Ti-VCT V6 2018–2025 6.0 qt FL-500S 20 ft-lbs 5W-30
6.2 V8 / 3.5 EcoBoost Raptor (pre-2021) 2011–2020 7.7 qt FL-820S (spin-on) 19 ft-lbs (steel pan) 5W-30
Power Stroke 3.0 Diesel 2018–2023 6.5 qt FL-2051S 26 ft-lbs 5W-40 full syn

Still got a 2004–2008 5.4 3V? Check your owner’s manual—those used FL-820S and 7 quarts, but most of you reading this are 2011+.

Safety First – No Exceptions

Engine and exhaust can stay hot enough to send you to the burn unit 45 minutes after shutdown, especially EcoBoost turbos. Let the truck sit at least 30 minutes after driving. Wear safety glasses—when that filter lets go, it’s a fire-hose of 200°F oil aimed right at your face. Jack stands are mandatory if you’re going underneath—ramps are fine for oil changes but I’ve seen too many trucks roll off.

Step-by-Step Oil Change (2015–2025 Gas Engines)

1
Run the engine 3-5 minutes – warm oil drains faster and suspends more junk. Don’t get it screaming hot.
2
Pop the hood and remove the oil fill cap – breaks the vacuum so it drains quicker.
3
Remove the underbody shields – 2018+ have two plastic aero shields held by 7 mm or Torx T30 bolts. Milwaukee M12 right-angle makes this 90 seconds instead of 15 minutes of swearing.
4
Place drain pan, remove drain plug with 17 mm – 2018+ aluminum oil pans = 20 ft-lbs only. I’ve cracked two pans this year from techs using impact guns.
[Photo: drain plug location looking from driver side wheel well]
5
While it drains, remove the filter housing cap – 74-76 mm 15-flute wrench. EcoBoost is on the passenger side front, Coyote is driver side rear. Turn counterclockwise. Expect the gusher.
The O-ring on the cap loves to stay in the housing. Fish it out or you’ll have two O-rings and a massive leak.
6
Replace filter element and both O-rings – lube the new O-rings with fresh oil. Motorcraft filters come with them; most aftermarket don’t—buy Motorcraft or WIX XP.
7
Reinstall filter cap – torque to 18 ft-lbs (24 N·m) + 180° turn per Ford TSB 19-2360. Yes, you need a torque wrench here too.
8
Install new crush washer on drain plug, torque to exactly 20 ft-lbs (27 N·m). Reuse the old washer once if you’re in a pinch, but I replace them every time—$0.47 part.
9
Add oil – I pour 5 quarts fast, then the rest slow while checking the dipstick every half-quart. 2021+ dipsticks are a pain—pull it, wipe, reinsert fully, wait 10 seconds.
10
Run engine 30 seconds, shut off, wait 5 minutes, check level again. Almost every F-150 takes another 0.3–0.7 qt after the filter fills.

Total time for me: 19 minutes start to finish. First-timer with decent tools: 45–60 minutes.

Pro tip: 2021+ trucks let you do the entire oil change from the top with a fluid extractor. Pull 7 quarts out the dipstick tube, drop new filter in, pour 7 quarts back in. Zero mess, zero crawling under the truck. I do my own 2023 PowerBoost this way every 5,000 miles.

Troubleshooting – Stuff That Goes Wrong

Oil on the ground after change?
90% chance the filter cap O-ring doubled up or the drain plug washer is old.

Check-engine light for “Oil Pressure Low” right after change?
You forgot to plug the MAF sensor back in when you moved the intake tube (common on 2015-2020 2.7s).

Filter cap stuck?
Heat it with a propane torch for 20 seconds—aluminum expands faster than plastic. Or use a Lisle 63600 strap wrench so you don’t round it off.

Drain plug spinning but not coming out?
Someone stripped it before you. Tap it with a hammer and 17 mm while turning, or install a piggyback oversized plug (Dorman 090-075.1).

Cost Breakdown – DIY vs Dealer

DIY Ford Dealer Quick Lube
Oil (6-8 qt synthetic) $38–$55 $70–$90 $60–$80
Motorcraft filter $11 $22 $18
Crush washer $0.50 included usually reused
Labor Your time $120–$180 $40–$60
Total $50–$66 $190–$290 $110–$160

Do it twice a year at 7,500 miles? You save $300–$450 annually easy.

FAQ – Questions I Get Every Week

Can I go 10,000 miles on full synthetic?
In perfect conditions, yes. In Texas summers towing 8,000 lbs? You’re killing turbos. I pull oil samples at 5,000 on heavy-use trucks—most are done by then. Change it at 5,000–7,500 and sleep at night.
Mobil 1 vs Motorcraft synthetic—any real difference?
Motorcraft is Warren WPP full synthetic (same as Mobil 1). I’ve cut open hundreds—both look identical at 7,000 miles. Buy whichever is cheaper that week.
Do I really need to torque the drain plug?
Yes. 2018+ aluminum pans crack at 30+ ft-lbs. I keep a 20 ft-lb torque wrench in my rolling tool box just for F-150s.
Can I use a Fram Ultra instead of Motorcraft?
I run Fram Ultra XG10575 in my personal 2022 5.0—100k miles, zero issues, better filtration numbers on the spec sheet. Just make sure you get the right O-rings.
How often for severe service?
Towing, idling, dusty roads, short trips—every 3,000–5,000 miles. Ford’s “Intelligent Oil Life Monitor” is notoriously optimistic under severe use.

Final Word From the Lift

An F-150 oil change is one of the easiest jobs on the truck—if you have the right tools and don’t rush the torque specs. Total cost under $70, 45 minutes in your driveway, and you know it was done right. I still do my own 2023 every 5,000 miles even though Ford would do it free for another year. Why? Because I’ve cleaned up too many “free” oil changes that cost customers $800 when the filter housing leaks or the plug strips.

Get under there, take your time, torque everything, and you’ll never be the guy on the hook with the $11,000 engine bill. See you at the parts counter.

— Jake
ASE Master L1, 17 years turning wrenches on everything with a Blue Oval

Still unsure about the exact oil for your engine? Check our [F-150 oil type guide](f150 oil type, 5.0 coyote oil, 3.5 ecoboost oil, oil filter wrench, drain plug size, oil capacity chart) or the [oil capacity chart](oil capacity chart).

 

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