It was a Tuesday, the kind of rainy afternoon that makes you glad to be in the shop. A customer rolled in with a 2018 Outback, the 2.5i model. “It’s just making a little ticking noise on cold starts,” she said, “and the maintenance reminder has been on for a couple hundred miles.” I popped the hood. The oil was a quart low and black as used motor oil gets. That familiar, dry-start rattle from the top end of the boxer engine told the whole story. It’s a sound I’ve heard too many times. Changing the oil in a Subaru isn’t hard, but doing it *right*—with the right parts, the right oil, and the right torque—is what separates a 200,000-mile engine from an expensive boat anchor. Let me walk you through exactly how I do it in my shop.
Quick Answer
Most modern Subaru Outbacks with the 2.5L FB25 engine require 0W-20 full synthetic oil with an outback oil capacity of approximately 5.1 quarts. The oil filter is located on top of the engine, making it one of the easiest filters to access in the industry. Always replace the drain plug washer.
Gathering Your Arsenal: Tools and Parts
Before you slide under the car, get everything you need. There’s nothing worse than being covered in oil and realizing you forgot the filter wrench. Here’s the definitive list.
Must-Have Tools & Materials
- Oil: 5.1 quarts of 0W-20 full synthetic. I’ve had great results with Pennzoil Platinum and Mobil 1. Check out our guide on the best synthetic oil brands for 2025 for more options.
- Oil Filter: Subaru OEM part # 15208AA15A (Tokyo Roki) or a high-quality aftermarket like WIX 57055 or Purolator BOSS PBL14670.
- Drain Plug Washer: Subaru OEM part # 11126AA000. This is a crush washer and is NOT reusable. A fresh one is cheap insurance against leaks.
- Socket Set: 14mm socket for the drain plug (a 6-point is best to avoid rounding).
- Ratchet, Extension, and 3/8″ Drive: A 3-inch extension is perfect.
- Oil Filter Wrench: A 65-67mm, 14-flute cap-style wrench is ideal for the OEM filter.
- Oil Drain Pan: At least 7-quart capacity.
- Funnel: To avoid spills when adding new oil.
- Jack and Jack Stands / Rhino Ramps: NEVER work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- Gloves and Safety Glasses: Oil in the eye is a terrible way to end the day.
⚠️ Critical Safety Warning
Engine oil can be extremely hot and cause severe burns. Always let the engine cool completely before starting. More importantly, a car supported improperly can fall and crush you, causing fatal injury. Use jack stands on solid, level pavement and set the parking brake. Do not rely on the factory jack for support.
Subaru Outback Oil Change: Technical Specifications
Subarus are not “one size fits all.” Getting these specs wrong can lead to poor performance or even engine damage. Here are the exact numbers you need.
Oil Capacity and Type
The outback oil capacity varies by model year and engine. Using the correct amount is critical; overfilling can foam the oil and damage the engine, just like underfilling.
| Engine | Model Years | Oil Capacity (with filter) | Oil Type |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2.5L FB25 (4-cylinder) | 2013-Present | 5.1 Quarts (4.8 Liters) | 0W-20 Full Synthetic |
| 3.6L EZ36 (6-cylinder) | 2010-2019 | 6.9 Quarts (6.5 Liters) | 5W-30 Full Synthetic | 2.4L FA24 (Turbo) | 2020-Present (XT Models) | 5.4 Quarts (5.1 Liters) | 0W-20 Full Synthetic |
Pro Tip: The 4.8 Quart Rule
Don’t dump all 5.1 quarts in at once. Add about 4.8 quarts, start the engine, let it run for a minute to fill the new filter, then shut it off. Check the dipstick after it’s settled for 5-10 minutes and top up to the full mark. This prevents overfilling, a common rookie mistake.
Torque Specifications
Guessing on torque is how oil pans get stripped. Use a torque wrench.
- Oil Drain Plug Torque: 32.5 ft-lbs (44 Nm)
- Oil Filter Torque: Hand-tight plus a 3/4-turn after the gasket makes contact. If using a wrench, do not exceed 18 ft-lbs.
The Step-by-Step Shop Procedure
Follow these steps in order. I’ve timed this job dozens of times; a first-timer should take about 45 minutes. With experience, you can knock it out in 20.
Prep the Vehicle
Park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. If the engine is warm, let it cool. Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap. This helps the oil drain faster. [Image: Open engine bay with oil cap removed]
Lift and Secure the Car
This is the most important safety step. Use a floor jack on the designated front jack point (behind the front bumper on the crossmember) to lift the front of the car. Place jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds behind the front wheels. Give the car a good shake to ensure it’s stable.
Drain the Old Oil
Slide your drain pan under the oil pan. Locate the 14mm drain plug on the bottom rear of the pan. Using your ratchet, break it loose, then unscrew it by hand. Be ready for the initial rush of hot oil. Pull your hand away quickly. Let it drain for at least 10-15 minutes until it’s down to a slow drip. [Image: Drain plug location and oil stream]
Replace the Filter and Washer
While it’s draining, address the oil filter location. On most modern Outbacks (2010+), it’s right on top of the engine, a brilliant piece of engineering. Place a shop rag under it to catch any drips. Use your cap wrench to loosen it, then unscrew it by hand. Tip it upside down as you remove it to minimize spillage. Wipe clean the filter mating surface on the engine. Lubricate the new filter’s gasket with a dab of fresh oil. Screw it on by hand until the gasket contacts the base, then give it another 3/4 turn. Don’t gorilla-arm it. Back under the car, clean the drain plug and install the new crush washer. Reinstall the plug and torque it to 32.5 ft-lbs.
Don’t Skip This Washer!
I’ve had at least a dozen cars towed in with a trail of oil behind them because someone reused the old, crushed washer. For a $1.50 part, it’s not worth the risk of a leak that could seize your engine. Always replace it.
Add New Oil and Check for Leaks
Lower the car so it’s level. Using a funnel, add about 4.8 quarts of new 0W-20 full synthetic oil. Replace the oil cap. Start the engine and let it run for about a minute. The oil pressure light might flicker for a second as the new filter fills—this is normal. Shut the engine off and wait 5-10 minutes for the oil to settle in the pan. Check the dipstick and add oil in small increments until the level is at the full mark. Do not overfill. Finally, get back under the car and visually inspect the drain plug and filter for any fresh drips.
Reset the Maintenance Reminder
This is the final step that many people forget. To reset the maintenance reminder on the dashboard:
- Turn the ignition to “ON” without starting the engine.
- On the dash display, navigate to the “Maintenance” screen using the buttons on the steering wheel.
- Select “Oil Change” and hold the “OK” button to reset the interval. It should now show another 6,000 miles or months.
Check your owner’s manual for model-specific instructions.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even a simple job can have hiccups. Here’s what to do if something doesn’t go as planned.
Problem: Oil Leak From Drain Plug
Symptom: A small puddle of oil under the car a day or two after the change, centered under the oil pan.
Diagnosis: 99% of the time, it’s the drain plug washer. Either it was reused, not tightened properly, or over-tightened and deformed.
Fix: Drain the oil again (you can reuse the new oil if it’s clean), and install a brand-new OEM crush washer. Torque to spec.
Cost: DIY: $2 for a washer. Pro: $50 for a re-do.
Problem: Oil Leak From Filter
Symptom: Oil dripping down the side of the engine block or onto the exhaust, causing a burning smell.
Diagnosis: The old filter gasket might be stuck to the engine block (a “double gasket”), or the new filter is cross-threaded or not tight enough.
Fix: Remove the filter and check for a double gasket. If clean, reinstall the filter, ensuring you hand-tighten it properly.
Cost: DIY: $0. Pro: $30 for a new filter and install.
Problem: Oil Pressure Light Remains On
Symptom: The oil pressure light stays on or flickers after starting the engine.
Diagnosis: This is serious. You could be very low on oil, have used the wrong viscosity, or there’s an air pocket in the system. Stop the engine immediately.
Fix: Check the oil level first. If it’s correct, you may have a faulty oil pressure sensor, but it’s best to have a pro diagnose it to rule out a mechanical oil pump failure.
Cost: Sensor replacement: $150-$300 (pro). Oil pump replacement: $1,200+.
The Real Cost: DIY vs. Professional Service
Let’s talk numbers. This is where doing it yourself really pays off, both short-term and long-term.
DIY Cost Breakdown
- 5 Quarts Full Synthetic 0W-20 Oil: $30 – $40
- High-Quality Oil Filter: $8 – $12
- Drain Plug Washer: $1 – $2
- Total Per Change: $39 – $54
- Initial Tool Investment (Jack Stands, Pan, Wrench): ~$150 (one-time)
Professional Service Cost
- Dealership: $90 – $130
- Independent Shop: $75 – $100
- Quick-Lube Chain: $70 – $90 (but be wary of upsells and quality)
You’re saving at least $30-$50 every time you do it yourself. Over 10 changes, that’s $300-$500, plus the peace of mind that comes from knowing the job was done correctly with quality parts. If you drive in extreme heat, cold, or do lots of short trips, you might need to follow a severe driving oil change schedule, making the DIY savings even greater.
Frequently Asked Questions (From My Shop)
Can I use 5W-30 instead of 0W-20 in my Subaru?
Stick with 0W-20. Subaru engineers designed these tight-tolerance boxer engines for this thin oil to maximize fuel economy and provide instant lubrication on startup. Using a heavier oil can lead to increased wear over time, especially in cold weather. The only exception is for very old, high-mileage engines where a mechanic might recommend a slightly heavier oil to address consumption, but that’s a band-aid, not a fix.
How often should I really change the oil?
For normal driving, follow the factory recommendation of every 6,000 miles or 6 months. However, “normal” driving is a myth for most people. If your driving is mostly short trips, towing, or in dusty conditions, you should change it more frequently. I recommend my customers check their oil level every other fuel stop and consider a 5,000-mile interval for peace of mind. Learn more about proper service frequency for your specific driving habits.
My Outback is burning oil. Is that normal?
Unfortunately, it’s somewhat common on higher-mileage Subarus, particularly the 2.5L engines from the 2010-2014 era. Subaru even issued a TSB about it. A quart every 1,000-1,200 miles is considered “within acceptable limits” by some manufacturers, but that’s a lot in my book. If you’re burning more than that, it’s time for a diagnostic. Keep a quart in the trunk and check the level religiously.
Is synthetic oil really necessary?
For any Subaru made in the last 15 years, absolutely yes. It provides superior protection against heat, cold, and sludge formation. The chemistry is just better. The debate between synthetic versus conventional oil is largely over for modern engines. The small cost difference is worth the long-term engine health.
Should I use a different oil weight in winter?
No. The beauty of a 0W-20 oil is that the “0W” part is specifically designed for cold-temperature performance. It flows easily in sub-zero weather to protect your engine at startup. You don’t need to switch for the seasons. This is one less thing to worry about. For a deeper dive, our guide on winter and summer oil differences explains the science.
Final Verdict from the Shop Floor
Changing the oil in your Subaru Outback is a moderately easy DIY job that can save you significant money and ensure your boxer engine lives a long, healthy life. The total cost for a quality DIY change is around $50, compared to $100+ at a shop. The key takeaways are simple: use full synthetic 0W-20, always replace the crush washer, torque the drain plug to 32.5 ft-lbs, and don’t overfill. From my perspective, this isn’t just maintenance; it’s the single most important thing you can do for your car. I’ve seen well-maintained Outbacks roll through my shop with over 300,000 miles on the original engine. They got there one oil change at a time. Now you have the knowledge to do it right. Get your hands dirty—your wallet and your Subaru will thank you.