Quick Answer: If your car stalls at idle—especially at red lights or when stopped—the most common culprits are a failing idle air control valve (IACV), vacuum leaks, a dirty throttle body, or a malfunctioning mass airflow sensor (MAF). Diagnosis starts with checking for error codes and inspecting hoses and sensors. Many fixes are DIY-friendly and … Read more
Tuesday morning, 7:30 AM. A ’98 Civic rolls into my bay with the customer white-knuckled and frustrated. “It keeps dying at every stoplight,” she says, her voice cracking. The poor girl’s been nursing this thing for weeks, restarting it in traffic like she’s playing Russian roulette with rush hour. One quick scan, a $47 part … Read more
Last Tuesday, 3:47 PM—heat index 104°F—a sweating guy in a 2016 Honda Civic LX rolled into my shop looking like he’d seen a ghost. “It’s doing this every time I hit the AC,” he said, mimicking violent shaking. His knuckles were white on the steering wheel. I popped the hood and saw it immediately: … Read more
If your car shudders, bucks, or threatens to stall the moment you turn the key—especially on a chilly morning—you’re dealing with a rough idle at startup. It’s one of the most common yet frustrating issues drivers face. Left unaddressed, it can lead to poor fuel economy, failed emissions tests, or even engine damage over time. … Read more
Quick Answer: A rough idle is often caused by vacuum leaks, a dirty or faulty idle air control valve (IAC), worn spark plugs, or clogged fuel injectors. Start diagnosis with an OBD2 scan for codes, check for vacuum leaks, and inspect plugs and the IAC. Many fixes are DIY-friendly and cost under $200. It was … Read more