How to Change Brake Pads on Honda Civic 2020: Complete DIY Guide

Why Brake Pad Maintenance Matters for Your 2020 Civic

Your 2020 Honda Civic’s braking system is its most critical safety feature, and maintaining it properly can mean the difference between a safe stop and a dangerous situation. Brake pad replacement is one of the most common maintenance tasks you’ll perform on your Civic, and with the right knowledge, it’s a job you can tackle in your own garage.

The 2020 Honda Civic features disc brakes on all four wheels—a first for base-model 10th generation Civics. This means smoother, more consistent braking performance compared to older drum brake systems. However, it also means both front and rear brake pads will eventually wear down and need replacement.

If you’re experiencing any of these symptoms, it’s time to inspect your brake pads.

In this comprehensive guide, you’ll learn exactly how to replace brake pads on your 2020 Honda Civic, including specific torque specifications, electronic parking brake procedures, and money-saving tips. As an ASE-certified master technician with over 15 years of experience, I’ll walk you through every step of this intermediate-level repair that can save you $200-500 compared to professional installation.

Tools and Materials Needed

Essential Tools

Tool	Specifications	Cost Range
Floor Jack	3,000+ lbs capacity	$50-150
Jack Stands	Pair, 3+ ton rating	$40-80
Lug Wrench	19mm socket/impact wrench	$15-200
Socket Set	14mm, 17mm, 19mm sockets	$30-100
Allen Socket	7mm hex (rear calipers)	$8-15
E11 Torx Socket	For EPB manual method	$8-15
Torque Wrench	10-100 ft-lbs range	$40-150
C-Clamp or Piston Tool	Brake piston compressor	$15-40
Wire Brush	For cleaning brackets	$5-10

Optional but Recommended

• OBD2 Scanner with EPB function (Autel AP200, Foxwell NT510) – $60-400
• Brake pad spreader tool – $15-30
• Mechanic’s wire or bungee cords – $5
• Digital caliper (to measure rotor thickness) – $15-30

Materials Required

Safety Precautions (Critical Reading)

Jack Stand Safety – Life or Death

Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Jacks can fail, slip, or tip over without warning. Always use properly rated jack stands placed on solid frame points. Position stands on designated jacking points, never on pinch welds alone. A falling vehicle can cause crushing injuries resulting in death.

Brake Dust Hazards

Brake dust may contain harmful materials including metallic particles and trace amounts of asbestos in older pads. Always wear an N95 respirator mask when cleaning brake components. Never use compressed air to blow off brake dust, as this disperses harmful particles into the air you breathe. Instead, wipe components with a damp cloth or use brake parts cleaner spray.

Chemical and Eye Protection

• Wear ANSI-approved safety glasses at all times
• Use brake cleaner in well-ventilated areas (highly flammable)
• Keep brake cleaner away from flames, sparks, and hot surfaces
• Brake fluid (DOT 3) is corrosive and damages paint—wash off immediately
• If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush with water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention

Electronic Parking Brake Warning

Additional Safety Measures

• Vehicle Stability: Always chock wheels on the opposite end from where you’re working. Use parking brake only when working on front brakes. When working on rear brakes, parking brake must be OFF.
• Hot Brakes: Never work on brake components immediately after driving. Rotors can exceed 500°F. Allow 30 minutes cooling time.
• Work Surface: Always work on level, solid ground. Never on soft dirt, gravel, or inclined surfaces.
• Proper Lighting: Ensure adequate lighting to see all components clearly.

Difficulty Level and Time Required

Skill Level	Intermediate
First-Time DIYer (Front Only)	2.5-3.5 hours
First-Time DIYer (All Four Wheels)	4-6 hours
Experienced DIYer (Front Only)	1-1.5 hours
Experienced DIYer (All Four)	2.5-3.5 hours
Professional Mechanic	1-2 hours

Complexity Factors

The front brake pad replacement on a 2020 Civic is straightforward and similar to most vehicles. The primary challenges include:

• Ensuring caliper bolts are properly torqued to specifications
• Thoroughly cleaning and lubricating caliper slides
• Properly compressing caliper pistons without damage

The rear brake pad replacement adds complexity due to the electronic parking brake (EPB) system. The rear caliper pistons must be retracted (wound in) before compressing, which requires either a special tool or placing the EPB in service mode.

Step-by-Step Guide

This comprehensive procedure covers both front and rear brake pad replacement. Follow each step carefully and never rush brake work.

Preparation (Steps 1-5)

1 Position Your Vehicle: Park your 2020 Civic on a level, solid surface. If performing a complete brake job, start with the front brakes. If only doing rear brakes, follow the electronic parking brake procedures outlined later in this guide.

2 Prevent Brake Fluid Overflow: Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder reservoir near the firewall on the driver’s side. If the fluid level is at or near the MAX line, remove approximately 1/4 cup of fluid using a turkey baster or fluid pump. This prevents overflow when you compress caliper pistons later. Dispose of old brake fluid properly—never pour it down drains.

3 Loosen Lug Nuts: Using a 19mm socket or lug wrench, loosen the wheel lug nuts approximately 1/2 turn while the vehicle is still on the ground. Do not remove them completely yet—just break them loose. This is much easier than trying to loosen them while the wheel is off the ground.

4 Lift and Support Vehicle: Position your floor jack on the vehicle’s designated jack points (indicated by notches in the pinch weld under the rocker panels). Lift the front of the vehicle. Place jack stands under the front jack points on solid frame members and lower the vehicle onto the stands. Critical: Shake the vehicle firmly to ensure it’s stable before working underneath.

5 Remove Wheel: Remove the lug nuts completely and take off the front wheel. Place the wheel flat under the vehicle near the jack stand as an additional safety measure. You should now have clear access to the brake caliper, rotor, and caliper bracket.

Removing Front Brake Pads (Steps 6-12)

6 Clean Brake Assembly: Spray the entire brake assembly with brake parts cleaner, focusing on the caliper slides, mounting bolts, and rotor surfaces. Wipe away excess dust and debris with shop rags. Inspect the rotor for scoring, grooves, or excessive rust. Light surface rust is normal and will be removed by the new pads during break-in.

7 Locate Caliper Bolts: Find the two 14mm caliper bolts on the back of the caliper (visible from behind the rotor). These bolts hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. You’ll need both a 14mm socket and a 14mm wrench—use the wrench to hold the slide pin from rotating while you loosen the bolt with the socket and ratchet.

8 Remove Caliper: Remove both caliper bolts and carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. The caliper will still be attached by the flexible brake hose—do NOT let it hang by the hose, as this can damage the hose or brake line connection. Use a bungee cord, wire, or hook to hang the caliper from the suspension or secure it to the coil spring.

9 Remove Old Brake Pads: Remove the old brake pads from the caliper bracket. They may simply lift out, or you may need to slide them upward. Note the position of any anti-rattle shims or clips attached to the pads—these should transfer to your new pads if they’re in good condition. Also remove the pad retaining clips (spring clips) from the top and bottom of the caliper bracket.

10 Inspect and Clean Slide Pins: Inspect the caliper slide pins (the bolts you removed). They should be clean and move smoothly when you twist them. If they’re stuck, corroded, or have torn rubber boots, they should be serviced or replaced. Clean the slide pins with brake cleaner and apply a thin coat of high-temperature brake caliper grease to the smooth portion of the pin. Do NOT use regular grease or anti-seize on the pins.

11 Inspect Rotor Condition: Measure your rotor thickness with a micrometer or digital caliper if available. The minimum thickness specification for 2020 Civic front rotors is typically 26.0mm. If your rotors are below minimum thickness, heavily scored, or warped, they must be replaced. Light surface rust and minor marks are normal and acceptable.

12 Clean Caliper Bracket: Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly with a wire brush, removing any rust, old grease, or debris from the areas where the brake pad ears rest. These surfaces must be smooth and clean for proper pad movement. Clean the caliper piston with brake cleaner and inspect the rubber dust boot around the piston for tears or damage.

Installing Front Brake Pads (Steps 13-20)

13 Install New Retaining Clips: Install new pad retaining clips onto the caliper bracket. These spring clips go at the top and bottom where the brake pad ears slide into the bracket. Ensure they’re fully seated and secure. If your new pads came with replacement clips, use the new ones.

14 Apply Brake Grease: Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the backing plates of the new brake pads where they contact the caliper bracket and caliper piston. Apply grease to the edges and back of the pad backing plate—NEVER apply any lubricant to the friction surface (the part that contacts the rotor). Also apply a small amount of grease to the areas on the caliper bracket where the pad ears slide.

15 Compress Caliper Piston: Using a C-clamp or brake piston compression tool, slowly compress the caliper piston back into the caliper bore. Position the clamp so it pushes on the piston face (through an old brake pad to protect the piston) and the back of the caliper body. Compress slowly and watch the brake fluid reservoir—it will rise as you push the piston in. If fluid starts to overflow, stop and remove more fluid from the reservoir.

16 Install New Brake Pads: Install the new inner brake pad into the caliper bracket, ensuring it’s fully seated in the retaining clips. The pad should slide in smoothly and rest flat against the bracket. Install the outer brake pad in the same manner. If your pads came with new anti-rattle shims, install them on the back of each pad according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

17 Reinstall Caliper: Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor. The caliper should slide on easily—if it doesn’t, the piston may not be fully compressed. Do not force it. Align the caliper bolt holes with the slide pins on the bracket.

18 Install Caliper Bolts: Apply a small amount of blue thread-locker (optional) or anti-seize to the threads of the caliper bolts. Install both caliper bolts and hand-tighten them. Remember to hold the slide pin with a wrench while tightening the bolt to prevent the pin from spinning.

19 Torque Caliper Bolts: Using a torque wrench, tighten the front caliper bolts to 37 ft-lbs (50 Nm). This torque specification is critical—over-tightening can damage the slide pins or threads, while under-tightening can allow the caliper to shift during braking, causing noise and uneven wear.

20 Reinstall Wheel: Place the wheel back on the hub, hand-tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern (opposites). Lower the vehicle off the jack stands just enough so the tire touches the ground but the suspension isn’t fully loaded. Using your torque wrench, torque the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs (109 Nm) in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle completely and remove jack stands.

Rear Brake Pads – Electronic Parking Brake Procedure

The 2020 Honda Civic’s rear brakes feature an electronic parking brake (EPB) system that requires one additional procedure. The EPB uses an electric motor to mechanically actuate the parking brake. You must retract this mechanism before compressing the caliper piston.

Option A: Manual Retraction Method (No Scanner Required)

This is the most economical method and requires only an E11 Torx socket or 9mm socket.

21 Prepare Rear for Service: Ensure the parking brake is OFF before jacking up the rear of the vehicle. Jack up the rear, support on jack stands, remove the rear wheel, and clean the brake assembly.

22 Remove Rear Caliper: Remove the two 7mm Allen (hex) bolts that hold the rear caliper. These bolts are accessed from behind the caliper. Carefully lift the caliper off and hang it securely—do not let it dangle by the brake hose.

23 Disconnect EPB Motor: Unplug the electrical connector from the EPB motor (white connector on the back of the caliper). Press the release tab and pull straight out. Remove the two 5mm Allen bolts that hold the EPB motor assembly to the caliper. The motor will come off—there’s enough wire to lay it aside without fully disconnecting it.

24 Retract Parking Brake Mechanism: Using an E11 Torx socket (or a 9mm socket that fits), turn the exposed spindle on the back of the caliper clockwise until it stops. This winds the parking brake mechanism fully in, creating space to retract the piston. You’ll feel resistance increase, then it will lock at the fully retracted position.

25 Compress Piston and Install Pads: Now you can use a C-clamp or brake piston tool to compress the piston. Follow the same pad installation procedure as the fronts (cleaning bracket, applying grease, installing pads). Reinstall the EPB motor with the 5mm Allen bolts (torque to 84-96 inch-lbs), reconnect the electrical connector, and reinstall the caliper. Torque the rear caliper bolts to 18 ft-lbs (24 Nm).

Option B: OBD2 Scanner Method

If you have an OBD2 scanner with EPB service mode capability (such as Autel AP200, Foxwell NT510, or Topdon AD500), you can electronically retract the EPB mechanism:

1. Connect your OBD2 scanner to the port under the dashboard
2. Navigate to “EPB Service Mode” or “Brake Pad Replacement Mode”
3. Follow the scanner’s prompts to retract the rear calipers
4. Once activated, compress the rear pistons with a C-clamp like the fronts
5. After pad replacement, use the scanner to exit service mode

Option C: Simple Compression Method

Some mechanics successfully change rear pads by simply having the parking brake OFF and using extra force to compress the piston with a brake caliper wind-back tool. However, this method doesn’t properly reset the EPB ratcheting mechanism and is not recommended by Honda. Use Options A or B for proper service.

Final Steps – Testing and Verification (Steps 26-30)

26 Pump Brake Pedal: Before starting the engine, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm and consistent. This seats the brake pads against the rotors and extends the caliper pistons to their proper operating position. The pedal should feel normal and firm. If it feels spongy or goes to the floor, stop immediately and check your work—you may have a brake fluid leak or improperly installed components.

27 Check Brake Fluid Level: Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It should be between the MIN and MAX lines. Top off with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid if needed. Do not overfill. Wipe up any spilled fluid immediately (it damages paint) and replace the reservoir cap securely.

28 System Check: Start the engine and press the brake pedal firmly several times. The pedal should feel consistent and firm with the engine running. Check under the vehicle for any signs of brake fluid leaks around the calipers, brake lines, or connections. Even a small drip requires immediate attention.

29 Test Electronic Parking Brake: If you worked on rear brakes, cycle the electronic parking brake on and off 2-3 times to ensure proper operation. You should hear the EPB motors engage and release smoothly. If you see an EPB warning light or error message, you may need to clear codes with an OBD2 scanner or have the system reset at a dealer.

30 Test Drive: Perform a test drive in a safe area (empty parking lot) at low speeds (10-15 mph). Apply the brakes gently at first, then with increasing pressure. The vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to one side, pulsation, or unusual noise. Perform 5-10 gentle stops to begin the bedding-in process. Gradually increase speed and braking pressure as confidence builds.

7 Common Mistakes to Avoid

1. Not Retracting Rear EPB Mechanism Properly

The biggest mistake DIYers make with 2020 Civic rear brakes is trying to compress the piston without retracting the parking brake mechanism first. The EPB uses a ratcheting mechanism that must be wound back. Forcing the piston without retracting the mechanism can:

• Damage the EPB motor ($300-500 replacement)
• Strip internal gear teeth
• Trigger EPB warning lights requiring dealer reset
• Prevent proper parking brake operation

Solution: Always use one of the three methods outlined in this guide to properly retract the EPB before compressing rear pistons.

2. Mixing Up Inner and Outer Brake Pads

Many brake pad sets have different inner and outer pads. The inner pad often has a wear indicator clip or different backing plate design. Installing them backwards causes:

• Squealing or grinding noises
• Uneven pad wear (one pad wears much faster)
• Poor braking performance
• Premature pad replacement needed

Solution: Before removing old pads, note which is inner and outer. Most pad packaging clearly labels them. When in doubt, the pad with the wear indicator tab typically goes on the inner position.

3. Forgetting to Pump the Brake Pedal

This dangerous mistake happens when DIYers forget that newly installed pads have retracted pistons. Without pumping the pedal:

• First brake application has little to no stopping power
• Can cause rear-end collisions when pulling out of driveway
• Pedal goes to floor on first press

Solution: ALWAYS pump the brake pedal 10-15 times before starting the engine. Verify a firm pedal. Test at low speeds before driving normally. This is non-negotiable for safety.

4. Not Lubricating Caliper Slide Pins

Seized or dry caliper slide pins are a leading cause of premature brake wear. When slide pins don’t move freely:

• Caliper can’t “float” properly to center over rotor
• One pad wears much faster than the other
• Uneven braking performance
• Pulling to one side when braking
• Premature rotor wear and damage

Solution: Always clean slide pins thoroughly with brake cleaner. Inspect rubber boots for tears. Apply proper high-temperature brake caliper grease (not regular grease or anti-seize) to the smooth shaft of the pin. If boots are torn or pins are seized, service them before installing new pads.

5. Using Wrong Grease in Wrong Places

This common error causes contamination, squealing, or seized components:

CORRECT Grease Locations:

• Caliper slide pin shafts (high-temp brake caliper grease)
• Backs of pad backing plates (thin layer)
• Pad ear contact points on bracket
• Where shims contact caliper piston

NEVER Apply Grease To:

• ❌ Friction surface of brake pads
• ❌ Rotor braking surface
• ❌ Caliper piston face
• ❌ Slide pin rubber boots (causes swelling/deterioration)

Solution: Use high-temperature synthetic brake caliper grease specifically designed for brake systems. Regular grease deteriorates rubber boots. Anti-seize is for bolts only, never sliding surfaces.

6. Skipping the Break-In Procedure

New brake pads need proper bedding to achieve full performance. Skipping break-in causes:

• Reduced stopping power
• Uneven pad deposits on rotors (causes pulsation)
• Squealing noises
• Premature pad glazing
• Never reaching optimal performance

Solution: Follow the break-in procedure outlined in the Maintenance section. For the first 200-300 miles: avoid hard stops, perform 8-10 moderate stops from 40 mph with cooling time between stops, and gradually increase braking firmness.

7. Ignoring Rotor Condition

Installing new pads on worn, warped, or damaged rotors is wasted money and time:

• New pads wear faster conforming to damaged rotor surface
• Squealing, grinding, or pulsating continues
• Poor braking performance despite new pads
• Need to replace pads again soon

Solution: Always measure rotor thickness (front minimum: 26.0mm, rear: 18.0mm). Inspect for deep scoring, grooves, hot spots (blue discoloration), or warping. If rotors show significant wear, replace them. If near minimum thickness, replace them—resurfacing removes material.

Cost Breakdown & Your Savings

DIY Total Costs

Professional Installation Costs

Service Location	Front Pads	Rear Pads	All Four Wheels
Honda Dealership	$250-400	$250-400	$500-800
Independent Shop	$180-300	$180-300	$350-600
Chain Store (Midas, Firestone)	$200-350	$200-350	$400-700

Your DIY Savings

When to Call a Professional

While brake pad replacement is a suitable DIY project for mechanically inclined owners, certain situations require professional assistance:

Seized Components

If caliper bolts, slide pins, or other fasteners won’t budge despite proper tools and penetrating oil, forcing them can strip threads or break bolts. Professional shops have:

• Specialty extractors for damaged fasteners
• High-powered impact tools
• Experience with seized Honda components
• Ability to repair stripped threads with helicoil inserts

Brake Fluid Leaks

Rotor Replacement or Resurfacing

If your rotors are warped (causing pedal pulsation), deeply scored, or below minimum thickness, they need service:

• Resurfacing (machining): Shops can resurface rotors if above minimum thickness – often $15-30 per rotor
• Replacement: Requires special tools to remove stuck rotors and involves additional labor
• Measurement: Professionals have precision micrometers to measure exact thickness

EPB System Errors

If your electronic parking brake warning light stays on after rear service, or the EPB won’t engage/release:

• May indicate wiring damage or loose connections
• Could require EPB motor calibration with Honda HDS scan tool
• Possible internal mechanism damage from improper service
• Honda dealers have specialized diagnostic equipment

Warning Light Issues

If your ABS light, brake system warning light, or traction control light illuminates during or after brake service:

• May indicate air in brake lines requiring bleeding
• Could be wheel speed sensor damage during wheel removal
• Possible brake fluid level sensor issue
• May require professional diagnosis with factory scan tools

Caliper Replacement Needed

If calipers are leaking, frozen, or damaged, replacement requires:

• Brake line disconnection and reconnection
• Brake system bleeding to remove all air
• Special bleeding equipment (vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder)
• Fresh brake fluid and proper technique

Most DIYers prefer to have shops handle caliper replacement and system bleeding due to the additional complexity and specialized tools required.

Lack of Proper Safety Equipment

If you don’t have access to:

• Properly rated floor jack and jack stands
• Torque wrench for critical fasteners
• Safe, level work surface
• Adequate lighting

Never substitute proper equipment with unsafe alternatives. Your life is worth more than the cost of professional service. Never work under a vehicle supported by jacks alone, blocks, bricks, or other improvised supports.

Maintenance Tips After Completion

Break-In Procedure (Critical First 200-300 Miles)

Proper Break-In Steps

First 50 Miles: Drive normally but avoid hard braking. Make several gentle stops from 30 mph to allow the pads to begin conforming to the rotor surface. Avoid highway speeds if possible during the initial break-in.

Miles 50-100: Perform a series of 8-10 moderate stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph. Apply firm, consistent brake pressure (about 50% effort). Allow 30 seconds of cool-down time between stops—keep moving at slow speeds rather than coming to a complete stop. Don’t come to a complete stop immediately after braking, as this can deposit uneven material on the rotors (“pad imprinting”).

Miles 100-300: Gradually increase braking firmness as you approach normal driving. Avoid panic stops, extended downhill braking, or track/performance driving. The pads are building up an even transfer layer on the rotors during this period.

After 300 Miles: Your brakes should be fully bedded and performing at their best. You may notice a slight improvement in feel and stopping power as the break-in completes.

Inspection Intervals

Every Oil Change (5,000-7,500 miles)	Visual inspection of pad thickness through wheel spokes. Look for uneven wear.
Every 12 Months or 10,000 Miles	Remove wheels and measure pad thickness with ruler. Replace at 3-4mm thickness.
Every 2-3 Years or 30,000 Miles	Inspect brake fluid color. Dark brown/black indicates contamination – flush system.
Every Brake Pad Replacement	Clean and lubricate caliper slide pins, inspect rubber boots, measure rotors.

Expected Brake Pad Lifespan

Brake pad life varies dramatically based on driving habits and conditions:

• City driving with frequent stops: 25,000-40,000 miles
• Highway driving: 40,000-70,000 miles
• Aggressive/performance driving: 15,000-25,000 miles
• Conservative driving: 50,000-80,000 miles
• Mountainous terrain: 20,000-35,000 miles

Related Maintenance Items

Brake Fluid Flush (Every 3 Years)

Brake fluid is hygroscopic—it absorbs moisture from the air over time. This moisture:

• Lowers boiling point (can cause brake fade)
• Causes internal corrosion of calipers, wheel cylinders, ABS components
• Leads to expensive repairs if neglected

Have your brake fluid flushed and replaced every 3 years regardless of mileage. This $80-150 service prevents $500+ in future repairs.

Rotor Inspection and Service

Inspect rotors every time you replace pads:

• Measure thickness (front minimum: 26.0mm, rear: 18.0mm)
• Check for scoring, grooves deeper than 1mm
• Look for hot spots (blue discoloration indicates overheating)
• Check for warping (pedal pulsation when braking)

Replace rotors if at or below minimum thickness or showing significant damage. Rotors typically last 50,000-70,000 miles but can last through 2-3 pad replacements with proper care.

Caliper Slide Pin Service

Clean and relubricate caliper slide pins during every pad replacement:

• Remove pins and clean thoroughly with brake cleaner
• Inspect rubber boots for tears or deterioration
• Apply thin coat of high-temp brake caliper grease to pin shafts
• Replace boots if damaged
• Ensure pins slide freely without binding

This simple 5-minute service prevents uneven pad wear and extends brake system life.

Frequently Asked Questions

Ready to Save Money and Gain Confidence?

Changing brake pads on your 2020 Honda Civic is a rewarding DIY project that saves hundreds of dollars while giving you valuable hands-on experience with your vehicle’s most critical safety system. While the electronic parking brake on the rear wheels adds a learning curve, the process is entirely manageable with proper preparation and the right tools.

The key to success is following proper procedures, using correct torque specifications (37 ft-lbs for front calipers, 18 ft-lbs for rear), and taking your time to do the job right. Never skip safety steps like using jack stands, wearing protective equipment, or properly bedding in new pads.

Remember to inspect your brakes regularly, keep your brake fluid fresh, and address any warning signs immediately. Your 2020 Civic’s braking system is engineered for reliability, but it depends on you for proper maintenance.

If you found this guide helpful, you’re now equipped with the knowledge to maintain one of your vehicle’s most critical systems. Your 2020 Civic will thank you with safe, confident stopping power for many miles to come.