Last week, a student of mine—a first-time car owner in her mid-20s—pulled up in her 2018 Toyota Camry with a nervous smile and a paper receipt from a quick-lube shop. “They charged me $70 for an oil change,” she said, “and I could’ve done it myself in my apartment complex’s parking spot.” That moment reminded me why I’ve spent the last 12 years teaching automotive maintenance: knowledge is power, especially when it comes to your vehicle’s longevity and your wallet.
The average American spends over $400 a year on routine oil changes. But here’s the truth: changing your oil is one of the most straightforward and impactful DIY tasks you can perform. For a Toyota Camry—America’s long-standing favorite sedan—the process is consistent, accessible, and designed for routine service without professional tools. Yet, too many drivers rely on overpriced quick-lube chains or delay changes altogether, risking engine wear and voiding warranties.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through every step of changing the oil in your Toyota Camry, based on ASE/SAE standards and my experience teaching hundreds of beginners. You’ll learn which oil and filter to use, how to safely lift the car, avoid common mistakes, and dispose of used oil responsibly. Whether you drive a 2012 or a 2023 Camry, this guide applies across generations, with minor variations noted. By the end, you’ll not only save money—you’ll understand your car better.
Section 1: Tools, Supplies, and Safety Prep
Before you touch a wrench, let’s talk preparation—because in my classroom, I always say: “Half the job is setup.” A well-prepared workspace prevents accidents and ensures a clean, efficient oil change.
First, gather your supplies. For a Toyota Camry, you’ll need:
- 5 quarts of SAE 0W-20 synthetic oil (API Certified, ILSAC GF-6 compliant)
- One OEM or high-quality aftermarket oil filter (Toyota 04152-YZZA1 or equivalent)
- Socket wrench with 14mm socket (for the drain plug)
- Oil filter wrench (strap or cup-style)
- Drain pan (5-quart capacity, preferably with a spout)
- Jack and jack stands or ramps (DO NOT use only a jack)
- Gloves and safety glasses
- Funnel and rags
Now, safety. I’ve seen beginners skip gloves or work on uneven ground—mistakes that lead to slips, burns, or dropped pans. Always park on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Never work under a car supported only by a hydraulic jack. I once had a student who learned this the hard way when his jack slipped—thankfully, he wasn’t under the car, but the car dropped hard enough to crack the oil pan. Use jack stands rated for your Camry’s weight (around 3,500 lbs).
Warm up the engine for 5–7 minutes. This thins the oil, helping it drain more completely. But don’t let it get too hot—hot oil burns. I keep a spray bottle of water nearby to cool the drain plug area slightly if needed.
Check your owner’s manual. While most Camrys from 2012–2024 use 0W-20 synthetic, some older V6 models (like the 2011 and earlier) used 5W-20. Using the wrong viscosity can reduce fuel economy and increase engine wear. I’ve seen cases where drivers used 10W-30 “because it’s thicker,” only to find sludge buildup at 40,000 miles.
Section 2: Draining the Old Oil – Step by Step
Now, let’s get to the core of the job: draining the old oil. This is where precision matters—because one dropped drain plug or cross-threaded filter can turn a 30-minute job into a tow.
Start by lifting the front of the car. If using ramps, drive slowly and center the wheels. If using a jack, lift at the factory lift point behind the front wheels (look for the reinforced pinch weld). Place jack stands under the frame rails—never under control arms or subframes. Once secure, double-check stability by gently rocking the car.
Slide under the vehicle. On most Camrys, the oil drain plug is a 14mm bolt on the bottom of the oil pan, accessible from the front. Position your drain pan directly beneath it. I recommend a wide pan with high sides—old oil often splashes.
Put on gloves and safety glasses. Using your 14mm socket and breaker bar if needed, turn the drain plug counterclockwise. It may be tight—don’t force it. If it resists, apply gentle pressure. I’ve seen students round off plugs by using the wrong size socket (13mm is too small). Once loose, unscrew it by hand and let it hang from the threads—don’t drop it into the pan.
Oil will pour out quickly. A 2018 Camry, for example, holds about 4.6 quarts, so expect a steady stream for 5–7 minutes. While it drains, inspect the drain plug. Look for metal shavings in the oil or on the magnet (many Toyota plugs have one). A few tiny flecks are normal; a gritty sludge or visible chunks mean internal engine wear—time for a professional inspection.
After 10 minutes, when the drip slows to a trickle, reinstall the drain plug. Hand-tighten first, then use the wrench to snug it—about 25–30 ft-lbs. Overtightening is a common mistake; I’ve seen stripped pans from torque over 40 ft-lbs. Use a torque wrench if possible. Replace the rubber washer if it’s cracked or flattened—Toyota includes them in service kits.
Now, move to the oil filter. Locate it on the driver’s side of the engine—usually near the front. It’s a black canister, about 4 inches tall. Place the drain pan underneath, as some oil will spill. Use your oil filter wrench to loosen it. Turn counterclockwise. As it comes off, rotate it slowly to let oil drain into the pan.
Once removed, compare the old filter to the new one. Check the gasket—did it stay on the engine block? If yes, remove it carefully. A double gasket causes leaks. Wipe the mounting surface clean with a rag. Dab a bit of new oil on the rubber gasket of the new filter—this ensures a proper seal and prevents dry starts.
Screw the new filter on by hand. Tighten it “one full turn past hand-tight,” per Toyota specs. Do not use a wrench—over-tightening can deform the gasket or make it impossible to remove next time.
Section 3: Refilling with New Oil and Verification
With the old oil drained and the new filter installed, it’s time to refill. This step seems simple, but I’ve seen more mistakes here than anywhere else—especially overfilling.
Lower the car carefully from the jack stands or ramps. Start the engine and let it run for 10–15 seconds. Turn it off and wait 2 minutes. This allows oil to circulate and settle in the filter. Now, check the dipstick. On all Camrys, the dipstick is bright yellow and located near the front of the engine.
Pull it out, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert fully, then pull it again. The oil level should be between the “L” and “F” marks. If it’s below “L,” add oil 0.25 quarts at a time, rechecking each time.
Now, let’s talk oil type. For 2012 and newer Camrys, Toyota specifies 0W-20 synthetic oil. Why? It flows quickly at startup, reduces friction, and supports the engine’s variable valve timing (VVT-i) system. I had a student who switched to conventional oil to save $10—by 30,000 miles, his VVT-i solenoids were clogged with sludge, costing him $400 in repairs.
Use a clean funnel to pour in 4.6 quarts of oil. I recommend adding 4 quarts first, then checking the dipstick before adding the rest. Many beginners pour all 5 quarts at once and end up overfilled. Overfilling causes foaming, which reduces lubrication and increases pressure—potentially blowing out seals.
After adding oil, start the engine again. Let it run for 30 seconds while you check under the car. Look for leaks at the drain plug and filter. If you see a drip, shut off the engine and re-tighten slightly.
Turn it off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle. Recheck the dipstick. Top off if needed, but never exceed the “F” mark.
I once had a student who skipped the recheck—his oil was two fingers above “F.” He drove 10 miles before the oil light came on. Foamed oil triggered a low-pressure warning. Lesson: always verify.
Dispose of used oil and filter properly. Most auto parts stores (like O’Reilly’s or Advance Auto) accept up to 5 gallons for free. Never dump oil in the trash or on the ground—it takes one quart to contaminate 250,000 gallons of water. I keep a sealed container in my garage labeled “Used Oil” for collection.
Section 4: Common Mistakes and Pro Tips from the Garage
After teaching oil changes for over a decade, I’ve seen every mistake imaginable. Let me share the top five—and how to avoid them.
Mistake #1: Skipping the Warm-Up
Cold oil drains slowly and incompletely. I had a student who drained oil after a cold start—only 3.8 quarts came out. He added 4.6 quarts fresh, overfilling by nearly a quart. Warm the engine first—just not too hot.
Mistake #2: Forgetting the Filter Gasket
A missing or double gasket causes leaks. Always check that the old gasket came off the engine. If it’s stuck, pry it gently with a plastic trim tool—never metal.
Mistake #3: Using the Wrong Oil Type
Some drivers think “thicker oil protects better.” Not true. 0W-20 is engineered for Camry’s tight tolerances. Thicker oil reduces fuel economy and can starve the engine at startup.
Mistake #4: Not Torquing Properly
Too loose: leaks. Too tight: stripped threads. Use a torque wrench if possible—drain plug is 29–33 ft-lbs, filter hand-tight plus one turn.
Mistake #5: Not Resetting the Maintenance Light
Your Camry tracks oil life based on driving habits. After an oil change, reset the light:
1. Turn ignition to “ON” (do not start).
2. Press and hold the odometer button.
3. Wait for the light to flash, then release.
4. Turn off ignition.
Skip this, and the oil change reminder stays on—annoying, but also misleading.
Pro Tip: Keep a Maintenance Log
I teach my students to keep a notebook in the glove box. Record the date, mileage, oil type, and filter brand. One of my students caught a pattern of rapid oil consumption—led to an early diagnosis of a failing PCV valve, saving $1,200 in engine repairs.
FAQs: Your Oil Change Questions Answered
Is Synthetic Motor Oil Better For Your Car?
1. How often should I change the oil in my Toyota Camry?
For 2012 and newer models using synthetic oil, Toyota recommends every 10,000 miles or 12 months—whichever comes first. However, if you drive in severe conditions (short trips, extreme heat, towing), reduce that to 5,000 miles. I reset my own Camry’s oil life monitor every 7,500 miles as a safe middle ground.
2. Can I use conventional oil instead of synthetic?
Toyota designs the Camry for synthetic. While you can use conventional, it breaks down faster, increases sludge, and voids some extended warranty claims. I don’t recommend it—especially for newer models with VVT-i systems.
3. Why is my oil light still on after the change?
Two likely causes: low oil level or the maintenance light wasn’t reset. Check the dipstick first. If oil is full, reset the light using the trip meter button method. If it persists, have the system scanned—could be a faulty oil pressure sensor.
4. How do I know if the oil filter is on too tight?
If you needed a wrench to remove it, it was too tight. The filter should be hand-tight plus one full turn. Over-tightening can crush the gasket or damage the mounting boss—leading to leaks or a filter that won’t come off next time.
5. Is it okay to mix oil brands?
Yes, as long as they meet the same specification (API SN/SP, ILSAC GF-6, 0W-20). All synthetic oils are compatible. However, stick to one reputable brand (Mobil 1, Toyota Genuine, etc.) for consistency.
6. Can I change the oil without lifting the car?
On some Camrys with high ground clearance, you might reach the drain plug, but it’s risky. You’ll likely spill oil on the undercarriage or miss the pan. For a clean, safe job, use ramps or jack stands. It’s worth the extra setup.
Conclusion
Changing your oil isn’t just about saving $50—it’s about taking control of your vehicle’s health. As someone who’s taught hundreds of beginners, I can tell you: the first oil change is the hardest. But once you’ve done it, you’ll never see your car the same way. You’ll notice sounds, smells, and shifts that others miss.
For your Toyota Camry, stick to 0W-20 synthetic, use a quality filter, and always check your work. Follow the steps, respect the safety rules, and keep a log. Most importantly, don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty—every master mechanic started exactly where you are.
Now, go change that oil. Your Camry—and your wallet—will thank you.